Wet and wild

So after more than five months of constant sunshine and no rain, we are now in the midst of a deluge in Arequipa. It has rained for six straight days with only intermittent breaks. A few hours here and there of dryness, but even then it's threatening to rain. The sun has been out once, or maybe twice, in this stretch. I'm working a boatload, so to speak, so I don't really care, but everyone else seems a bit grumpy. And with the wet weather, walking has become even more challenging and dangerous. Pedestrians here ordinarily just bang into you, never say say excuse me, and rarely get out of your way even in the best weather. But now they're even more rude, if I may use that word -- and they're carrying weapons/umbrellas. Most Peruvians are shorter than me, meaning their umbrellas are at my face-level. No one seems very concerned about my face, and I've taken a couple of shots to the grill. The taxis will race by you, and since there's no drainage, expect to get soaked. It happened to me three times this past week. Still love the place, though. I woke up this morning (Saturday) to two guys screaming and yelling at each other outside my apartment. I took my ice-cold shower, got dressed, and when I went outside the two guys were on the ground punching and clawing. And still screaming. A woman cop stood over the two smiling and watching, while some other guys tried to separate the pair, who were both pretty beefy (but probably still shorter than me). This neighborhood is a bit sketchy, and my neighbors rarely acknowledge me when we cross paths, so I never did find out what the deal was. Probably just a couple of drunk a-holes blowing off steam at 7 a.m. My new anticuchos hangout is the best. Giant, juicy, tender chunks of marinated beef heart, with two hearty potatoes, grilled, and smothered in ahi' (glorious hot sauce). I'm hitting that place at least four times a week. In fact, I'm heading there tonight even though it's raining gatos y perros. Yes, my Spanish is beginning to improve, but of course I'm here for only about a month more. Oh well. I'm in the process of kicking the cigarette habit, which I picked up during my low stretch in October. Knowing they're so cheap adds to the challenge, but knowing they're so expensive in the U.S. adds to the incentive. The little girl who sells me wine recommended a 2007 cabernet sauvignon, Broquel, produced by the Argentinian winery Trapiche. It costs S/.38 (about $13.50 U.S.). I don't know squat about wine, but this stuff tastes pretty darn good. That little girl knows her vino. I'm already beginning to miss this place, and I haven't even left yet.